from Crib Sheet: Your Guide to Italy’s “Other” Coastal White
by April 12, 2017 – story: Jon Bonné – photo: Lizzie Munro
2013 Bisci Vigneto Fogliano Verdicchio Matelica
Since its founding, in 1972, Bisci has been the winery fighting the good fight for its hometown of Matelica. Mauro Bisci, son of founder Giuseppe Bisci, is now in charge, and the Fogliano is his family’s single-parcel effort from a 1978 planting of four hectares. The winemaking is perhaps a bit conservative (fermentation and 15 months aging in cement tanks, and another three in bottle), but in good years, like 2013, the Fogliano shows not just what verdicchio can yield, but specifically what Matelica—often seen as the middle child of the Marche—has the potential to achieve. This is full of sweet peach flavors, a charcoal-like stony side and a polished, ripe texture, almost like Soave.